Minecraft Enderman Pattern

This project was a long time in the making:

Although the enderman may be constructed in the same manner as my Creeper pattern, I chose to do it differently, primarily due to the awfully long limbs on this guy.  I'll share what I did, and maybe you'll find it useful, too!

The finished height of this plushie is 44" tall when his feet touch the floor.

Minecraft Enderman

Supplies

• 1,000 yards of black yarn
• 10 yards of light purple yarn (I used Red Heart Orchid)
• 5 yards of dark purple yarn (I used Red Heart Amethyst)
• 2-3 lbs. approx. fiberfill
• 4.00mm (G) hook
• yarn needle
• lots of patience

Instructions

An enderman (just like a creeper) has six body parts: four (4) limbs, one (1) body, and one (1) head.  You will make the body and head in two panels each.  You will make the limbs as three panels each.

(Apologies in advance for no photos--my camera has mysteriously been lost in Z-space.)

Limbs (Panel 1)  Make eight (8).

With black yarn, chain 7.

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each across. (6)

Row 2-6: Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (6)

Cut yarn and knot off.

(Yes, this is the easiest part of the entire project.)


Limbs  (Panel 2)  Make four (4).

With black yarn, chain 91.

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each across. (90)

Row 2-24:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (90)

Do not cut yarn.  Turn Panel 2 to work on the short edge.Take one Panel 1 square and seam it with sc to the short edge of Panel 2 (it will form the end of one limb, with 6 sc's per side of Panel 1).

When you reach the beginning of the seam, turn the piece inside-out and match the long edges together (so the seam you just made is now inside what will become the enderman's arm/leg).  Sc down the length of the arm/leg.  Leave a 24" yarn tail and cut yarn.  Knot off for now.

The piece is inside-out (long, and very unwieldy).  This is the tricky part: turning it right-side out while stuffing at the same time.

Take the closed end of the limb and turn it right-side out by working it back through the center of the tube.  Stuff as you go--every 2-3 inches.  I tended to stuff the ends of the limbs a little firmer, so they would hold shape, and the middles of the limbs softer so they could bend easily (and they wouldn't be as heavy).

You will continually slide the outer part of the inside-out leg up as you stuff, while working the inner, right-side-out part down. (I tend to think of it like putting on a pair of long socks--you slide your foot down the center of the sock, while your hands pull the sock up around your calf.)

Once the limb is stuffed the way you like it, thread the 24" tail through your yarn needle.  Sew another Panel 1 to the top, and then you can use the remaining tail to stitch the limb to the body.

(Yes, you have to do this four times.  Yikes!)


Body  (Panel 1)  Make one (1).

With black yarn, chain 25.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook; sc across in each st. (24)

Rows 2-36: Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (24)

Row 37:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc in BLO across. (24)   (This creates a faux seam.)

Rows 38-48: Ch 1, turn.  Sc across (24).

Row 49:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc in BLO across. (24)

Rows 50-84:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (24)

Cut yarn and knot off.


Body (Panel 2) Make one (1).

With black yarn, chain 13.

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook; sc across in each st. (12)

Rows 2-36:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (12)

Row 37:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc in BLO across. (12)

Rows 38-60:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (12)

Row 61:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc in BLO across. (12)

Rows 62-96: Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (12).

Do not cut yarn.  

Time to seam. Pull final loop larger and remove hook in order to practice lining up the panels.  Take each and fit them around each other to make a box.

Crochet through both panels with single crochet.  This very long seam will close up the entire chest.

Note:  You may choose to sc an extra stitch at the corners to make them more defined.  I've done it both ways, and have no preference.

Remember not to seam the last seam closed before stuffing the chest.  

Stuff the chest firmly (it needs to be able to support the head), and finish sc'ing the last seam.  Cut yarn and weave in end securely with yarn needle.


Head  (Panel 1)  Make one (1).

With black yarn, chain 25.

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd ch from hook; sc across in each st. (24)

Rows 2-24:  Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (24)

Row 25:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc in BLO across. (24)

Rows 26-48:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (24)

Row 49:  Ch 1 turn.  Sc in BLO across (24)

Rows 50-72:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (24)

Cut yarn and knot off.


Head  (Panel 2)  Make one (1).

With black yarn, chain 25.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook; sc across in each st. (24)

Rows 2-24:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (24)

Row 25:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc in BLO across. (24)

Rows 26-48: Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (24)

Row 49:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc in BLO across. (24)

Rows 50-56: Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (24)

Now begins the eye detail with the two shades of purple.  You will use the color change method below to change colors.  I will describe how it is done the first time, but when CC (color change) is noted, it is always going to be the same process of finishing the final SC with the new color.

Row 57:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across in first 23 st.  For 24th st, CC at end of st.

Note:  You are changing color to orchid (the lighter purple) on stitch 24.  With black, begin the 24th sc by inserting hook into stitch, yarn over, pull loop through.  Take your lighter purple yarn and yarn over, pull through to complete stitch 24.  The tails of your yarn should be on the side of the panel without ridged faux seams.  You can cut the black yarn, leaving a 1-1.5" tail.

Rows 58-60:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc in first 2 st.  CC to your amethyst (your dark purple) at the end of the 3rd st.

Note:  You will change color to dark purple on stitch 3.  With light purple, begin the 3rd sc by inserting hook into stitch, yarn over, pull loop through.  Take dark purple yarn and yarn over, pull through to complete stitch 3.  The tails of your yarn should be on the side of the panel without ridged faux seams.

Rows 58-60 (continued):  Continue with dark purple for the next 3 st.  CC to light purple at the end of the 3rd st.
Continue with light purple for the next 3 st, CC to black at the end of the 3rd st.
Continue with black for the next 5 st, CC to light purple at the end of the 6th st.
Continue with light purple for the next 3 st, CC to dark purple at the end of the 3rd st.
Continue with dark purple for the next 3 st, CC to light purple at the end of the 3rd st.
Continue with light purple for the next 3 st, CC to black at the end of the 3rd st.  (24)

You have just done the enderman's eyes.

Rows 61-72:  Ch 1, turn.  Sc across. (24)

Note:  Make sure to tie off any loose yarn ends so that the face will not unravel.

Time to seam!  Pull final loop larger and remove hook in order to line up the panels.  Take both panels and fit them around each other to make a box.

Place your hook back into your final loop, and crochet through both panels with single crochet.

Stuff the head, remembering to pack the corners well for a well-defined box shape, and finish sc'ing the last seam.  Cut yarn and weave in end securely with yarn needle.


Attaching the Limbs

Legs:  Arrange two limbs on the bottom front seam of the enderman's chest, 3-4" apart.  Sew one edge of enderman's limb to the bottom front seam.  Knot yarn and weave ends in securely.

This resulting "hinged" attachment allows the enderman to "sit" on the bottom of his chest naturally.

Note:  I know that's not how the enderman looks in Minecraft, but I find that if you were to attach the legs to the center bottom of the chest piece, then he wouldn't sit very well and your seams would strain.

Arms:  Take the other two limbs and sew one on each side of the top side seams of the chest (again, making a "hinged" attachment.  Knot yarn and weave in ends securely.

Head:  Stitch head to chest with yarn needle and black yarn.  I used a single, center seam (middle of head to middle of the top of the chest), but this does cause the head to 'nod'.  For a more fixed head, sew using the top front and rear seams of the chest.

Ta da!

A complete set of my plushie pattern works!

And as always: Microsoft is suing people selling Minecraft things online.  Don't get me in trouble.  This is a free pattern.  Utilize it properly and be responsible with it.

Once again, nerdy crafters:  Craft On!